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Blog entries tagged: Poland

Warsaw Jewish Cemetery

My last day in Poland was a day of celebration and commemoration elsewhere in Europe. In Germany, crowds were gathering in front of the Brandenburg Gate to mark 20 years since the fall of the Berlin Wall, while across the world Jewish communities were preparing to mark the anniversary of Kristallnacht. It was a rainy morning, but still I trudged out to the Okopowa Street Jewish cemetery, among the largest in Europe, to see the progress of a project to record information from the tombstones for a searchable online database. 

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Gloom

For nearly the whole of the six days I spent in Warsaw, a cold, wet blanket was wrapped around the city. Each night, a damp fog obscured the tops of the skyscrapers near the railway station, casting an eerie glow over the city. The weather has been terrible for much of my time in Europe, but while in Germany the cold had a sort of crisp efficiency to it, in Poland, it has been messy and obfuscating. In Germany, I zipped around the country, my reporting carried out with frightening punctuality. In Poland, the going has been much rougher. 

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Hail to the Chief

Poland’s chief rabbi, Michael Schudrich, has the air of someone who enjoys being a little unorthodox. I suppose you have to be to leave behind a comfortable Upper West Side upbringing, spend six years leading a community in Japan, and after that set up shop in post-Communist Poland. He’s an Orthodox rabbi who was originally ordained at the Jewish Theological Seminary, a vegetarian in a meat-and-potatoes country, and seemed to relish telling me about seeing the Grateful Dead perform at Nassau Coliseum in 1973. 

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Dear God

 It’s cold here.

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Warsaw!

As a habitual orderer of the kosher option on airplanes, I’ve grown accustomed to watching in envy as my fellow passengers devour a nice hot meal while I’m stuck with some dry, overcooked, soulless option prepared in a factory in Queens. So I was more than a little shocked when, after distributing shrink-wrapped mystery meat sandwiches to everyone else on the hourlong flight from Budapest to Warsaw, I was presented with an elegant black and red box, inside of which was a multi-course meal of meat and fish and fruit and crackers and even a little halva bar for desert. 

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